Sunday, June 16th 2013 - Finally in Japan!

We finally arrived in Narita Airport around 2pm and got our bags. It was muggy and hot even in the airport. As we were going through a hallway, I nearly ran into a man and said, "Sumimasen!" (excuse me). He replied in kind and that tiny exchange sent a thrill through me that I was finally back in Japan! We bought Suica cards (like a debit card for the train/subway system; you just charge it up with a chunk of money and then swipe it through train gates, saving you the hassle of figuring out individual tickets each time you ride the train) and rented a phone (our plan was to buy prepaid SIM cards for our Android phone like we did in Europe, but 1. they don't sell SIM cards, you have to rent them and 2. our Android phone didn't work in Japan because while it does have 3G, it doesn't have 3G GSM, whatever that is, so we rented a phone instead for the same price. We recommend Mobal; their prices were the best and the ladies at the counter we super helpful and patient) and hopped on a train to visit the R family.

*SuperNova Travel Tip: Do as much in the Narita Airport as you can because that's where you're going to find the most help in English. The airport is full of information desks as well as random workers there just to help you. Japan is extremely respectable and safe, so you don't have to worry about someone in the airport trying to scam you. One lady came up to us while we were staring blankly at the train counter and asked if we needed help with the train, handed us a flyer, and started to lead us somewhere. Anywhere else, this would be highly suspicious behavior leading to some sort of hard-sell. However, since this was Japan, the flyer was about a package deal for the train and she was leading us to the Suica machine where she stood by us and walked us through, step-by-step, how to buy the cards and then charge them. You don't tip in Japan, so she expected nothing from us, as soon as we were done we thanked her, she bowed, and hurried off. At the information desk, another lady researched and wrote out the route we needed to take from the airport to R's apartment, and the Mobal ladies helped us figure out our phone problems and rented us a phone with zero communication issues. Narita Airport is basically a lovely introduction to a lovely culture and you should take advantage while you're there. PS - Narita Airport is not really in Tokyo, just like Portland Airport is not really in Portland. Wherever you are staying, it's probably an hour/hour and a half away from the airport. DO NOT TAKE A TAXI unless you are prepared to spend all of your spending money on one (very clean) taxi ride. Take the train; you're going to do most of your traveling in Japan on the train anyway, you might as well jump right in especially when the people at your starting destination speak English and can help you with your first route.

Two trains and about an hour later, we were walking to R's aparto in Arakawa-ku via his excellent and very descriptive directions. It was hot and very humid, so on the way we stopped in 7-11 (yes, they have 7-11; no, it's not the same; it's WAY better) and picked up an Aquarius (sports drink), which was deliciously familiar.

*SuperNova Travel Note: Tokyo is not a city like Seattle or San Francisco. It is more like a small state (prefecture) with cities within it. So if you want to go to Harajuku because you are a huge Gwen Stefani fan, that's in Tokyo, but it's within Shibuya within Tokyo. (Specific places are like nesting dolls. For example, I used to live in Haraichi which was in Ageo which was in the Saitama prefecture.) Anyway, if you want to see "Tokyo" you need several days. Also, there are almost no street names, hence the exceptionally descriptive directions of how to get to R's aparto. Landmarks and trains are basically how you find anything, I have NO idea how postmen or pizza guys do their job. No one does.

I know R from back in my Japan days, but in the years since he has acquired an awesome family. He and his wife T have THE CUTEST 2 year old daughter and I wish that I posted personal pictures on my blog because I am sure you would agree. (Unless you have a 2 year old, in which case you are wildly offended.) They were most welcoming and had a tatami room (a room with traditional straw mats instead of carpet which have a distinctively pleasant smell) set up just for us. After presents were given (I was not joking, bring presents. Not only is it thoughtful, but it creates space in your suitcase for souvenirs!) they took us out to dinner at an izakaya near their home. An izakaya is a restaurant where you order lots of little plates and share with everyone, generally while drinking beer. I love izakayas because you can get beer and tons of little plates of things and if you make a horrible mistake (chicken cartilage on a stick, anyone?), then everyone has a piece, it's gone, you order the next thing, and then just split the bill at the end. This one came with what can only be described as a beautiful sashimi (raw fish) bouquet that Mc and company enjoyed quite a bit.

After that we walked home and Mc and I hit the hay (or tatami, I guess) while R's family went through the bath routine.

*SuperNova Travel Tip - Bathing in Japan is a ritual. Typical bathrooms are separate from the closet where they keep the toilet. (If you ask for a bathroom in public, they will look at you oddly, wondering why you want to take a bath in a department store. If you are out and need the restroom, ask for the toilet. That's one of my favorite universal words. Technically in Japan they say "toire" but you will be understood.) The bathroom generally has a telephone shower and a drain on the floor next to a deep, but short, bathtub. You are supposed to bathe at night, you do not get into bed with the day's cooties on you. You first scrub down sitting on a short stool using the telephone shower. Once you are all clean, you may get into the tub. The tub is for relaxing, not washing. This is important. You can take just a shower or you can even shower in the morning, but god help you if you get soap in the bathtub.

Monday, both R and T have to work and since we'll be jet-lagged, we plan to just do an easy day in Tokyo. (Did you ask which part of Tokyo? Good, you were paying attention! We plan on going to Asakusa.)